When skiing in Austria, it is not possible to resist the cultural offerings. Before skiing at Schladming and the adjacent slopes in the winter of January 2012, I squeezed a few days in Salzburg and Vienna– the skiing being on slopes between these two charming cities.
Salzburg is small enough to walk to much of the attractions in the city. On January 5th, after a pleasant dinner at the hotel restaurant next door, I got to the Landestheatre for a performance of La Cenerentola (Rossini). The singers were competent and the antics of this production provided an entertaining evening if you like this silly opera. The auditorium is cosy traditional old European opera house. Walked back to my accommodation in the snow feeling quite rewarded.
I did manage to attend a Latin mass at the Franciscan Church on January 6th, the feast of the Epiphany. It was a Schubert Mass and what a nostalgic e experience for lovers of religious music. In Roman Catholic Austria, the Latin mass is sung to a high standard. Another mass was sung at the larger Dom mid-morning but I wanted to get to Mozart’s house to see his rooms. The exhibits there about his life and works were quite informative.
In the afternoon, I headed for the New Year’s concert at their new Grosses Festspielhaus. This great hall is the main performance venue for opera with international stars. The programme starts in February and I was thus too early in the season. A New Year Concert on January 6thwas offered. I had missed the January 1st New Year Concert at the Landestheatre having arrived a week too late. Anyway, it was very interesting to see the Salzburg community turn up in formal attire – the men in their typical Austrian jackets. The performance was by the Blaserphilharmonie MozarteumSalzburg. The program was mostly Austrian and included a number of Strauss pieces – Johann Strauss of course. The encore with the Radetsky March prompted spontaneous participation by an audience who modulated their rhythmic applause in response to the baton. This was an occasion to enjoy Austrian music inAustria with the locals. The auditorium was part of old stable buildings attached to the rock face of the mountain but the interior was modern with excellent acoustics.
After 12 days skiing in Schladming (host to the world championship skiing competition in 2013) on the expansive slopes of Hauser Kaibling, Planai, Hochwurzen and Reiteralm, we headed for Vienna. I love train rides in the winter. One is warm and comfortable in the train as the snow covered fields and quaint villages glide past. One could see clumps of mistletoe in the bare trees. I looked out for ice crystals glistening like diamonds in the sunlit landscape.
It is not possible to experience everything Vienna has to offer in a few days. I had pre-booked on-line for Verdi’s Otello at the superb Vienna State Opera. The Neo-Renaissance building, foyer and magnificent lounge for drinks during the intermission were just grand Viennese decor. The Staaatoper gave me a wonderful seat nine rows from the front and practically in the centre of the main parterre. One could read subtitles if one wished in a selection of languages from the individual electronic display on the back of the seat in front.
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Vienna Boys Choir sings at Sunday Mass at Weiner Hofmusikappele, Hofburg Palace
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Art History Museum Cafe
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Weiner Staatsopera
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Weiner Staatsopera Balconies
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Weiner Staatsoper Ceiling
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Snowy Schaldming
The most memorable experience was the amazing orchestra which dominated the opera from the first bars of the opening storm scene. The conductor is placed relatively high and visible. Every note was clearly heard and with this orchestra the music was more dominant than what was happening on stage. This is partly because the production is contemporary, mostly in blue light and semi darkness. The intention was to depict the horror of the plot but I have never found productions very revealing where the mood is not varied for the entire length of the opera. Even the singing by village children happened in sinister lighting – not quite what they were singing and none of the dramatic relief that Shakespeare and Verdi used to heighten the drama. At times the singers did seem to sing at the audience rather than interact as one expects. But the singers were fabulous. Peter Seiffert was an Otello with a large presence and sang this difficult role comfortably. It was interesting to catch his spot-on response to the conductor’s stretched hand from the pit. Krassimira Stoyanova wasn’t a fragile Desdemona – a little more gutsy than usual with an attempt to strike Otello after being called a whore! The Willow Song and her singing in the last act were movingly tragic. The audience appreciated the portrayal of the villainous Iago by Franco Vassallo who delivered a hair raising Credo in deo crudel. One leaves the opera with a warm satisfaction that deserved to be complemented by a snack, Austrian confectionary and peppermint tea with honey (Viennese coffee if you preferred and able to sleep thereafter – there being many cafes in the vicinity. I did not try the Sacher Torte at the Sacher Hotel having had one too many.)
By the way, our group started earlier that day with Sunday mass at the Wiener Hofmusikkapelle – the small Hofburgkapelle at the Hofburg palace. As it was winter, we managed to get free seats at this service accompanied by the Vienna Boys Choir. They sang a Joseph Haydn mass. The mass was also supported by a shorter orchestral piece from Mozart. Listening to angelic voices in this royal chapel on a cold winter’s morning was a magical and meditative experience.
One cannot do justice to the many museums in Vienna. On this visit, the Rene Margritte exhibition at the Albertina was quite a highlight – The Betrayal of Images – This is not a pipe,Golconda, The Dominance of Light. Art that changes one’s mindset. This exhibition was crowded with groups of children taken around by guides whom they seem to respond to.
In Vienna, you don’t want to miss the Gustav Klimt collections. It is not just the art of course as he reflects Vienna at the turn of the 20th century.
At the KunsthistorischesMuseum– a building to enter and marvel at – the collections that overwhelmed me were the Durer paintings, the enormity of the Rubens and the Bruegel collection. I managed a part tour of the famous Schloss Schonbrunn palace and gardens and a performance by their resident orchestra of some opera and Viennese music. This was held at their Orangerie where Mozart performed in a competition against Salieri.
Also interesting was the insight into Sigmund Freud at his former residence. A recording of him speaking haltingly in English after his flight to Londonto escape the Nazis was rather moving.
The next visit will have to beVienna in the summer. So much more were missed.